Selections
Certainly the name Dutton rings loudly familiar across the industry and into most of the finest cellars. Yes, this is THE Dutton family – the near all-out colonizers of a great portion of the best vineyard sites and highest quality fruit in all of Sonoma. And that fruit is not just limited to the Chardonnay and Pinot (and recently, Syrah) grapes that have built the reputation of the Kistler’s, Patz & Halls, Rutz and Sebastiani’s of the world (to name a few) as the Dutton’s originally (and currently to a smaller degree) were apple orchard farmers. Converting much of their pristine property to exceptionally manicured grape growing was the natural progression and revolutionary initiation of a vision in New World winemaking much akin to the great whites of Burgundy where talented farmers supply equally talented winemakers with their grapes. Needless to say, their farming techniques are unsurpassed. Their constant vigilance, attention to historical data, chemical-free approach and “green farming” practices simply make the grapes taste better and assure the long-term development and improvement of their vineyards.
The Dutton’s, much like the inclinations of many other property owners these days, are now reaping the rewards of the “fruits of their labor”. With the acquisition of the talents and passionate philosophies of young, emerging winemaker, Mat Gustafson, in 2001, Tracy and Joe Dutton created the Dutton Estate vineyards designate wine program as an elevation to their Sebastopol Vineyards project. Dutton Estate is quickly being recognized (Wine and Spirits top 100 Wineries, 2005) as one of the most sought after boutique producers of the best single-vineyard Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah in the Russian River Valley and more specifically, its sub-appellation, the Green Valley.
Dutton Estate “Dutton Ranch”, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2003
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The Stats:
Winemaker:
- Mat Gustafson
Production:
- 215 cases
Vineyard Sourcing / Clones:
- Dutton Palms / Dutton Clone
- Vine Hill Ridge / Wente Clone
Winemaking:
- Whole Cluster Pressed; 100% barrel fermented in French Oak; Malo-lactic
Barrel Aging:
- “Sur Lees” in French Oak barrels (50% new)
The Score From the ‘Door:
In the sea of Chardonnay that floods and surges the market each year, this is an example that will undoubtedly catch you off guard and by disarming surprise. Dutton Estate and winemaker Mat Gustafson are primarily focused on letting the fruit on the vine (whatever it may be) and the site that it grows in (wherever it may be) represent itself as naturally as possible, devoid of manipulation and masking. That being said, all seems to be thriving quite well in their Dutton Ranch or Estate fruit as the 2003 Chardonnay shows the perfect expression of their desired balance of New World / Old World style. The Dutton Ranch brings a richness that is characteristic of the grape in its caramelized apple and pear flavors while an opulence of citrus lifts it out of a numbingly mundane weightiness that we so often squawk at. The structure and elegance of this wine packed with all its fruit-filled juiciness offer a nod to Burgundy in its ensuing spice and minerality – all in all, bringing us to a pleasurable arrival to the best of both worlds.
Dutton Estate “Thomas Road”, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2003
Download tech sheet in PDF format
The Stats:
Winemaker:
- Mat Gustafson
Production:
- 230 cases
Vineyard Sourcing / Clones:
- Thomas Road / Dijon 115
Winemaking:
- Cold soaked; manual punch down
Barrel Aging:
- : French Oak (60% new)
The Score From the ‘Door:
The Thomas Road Pinot is all the rage as of all late as it is conjuring all sorts of attention from Wine and Spirits Magazine and Wine Spectator alike. We can wholeheartedly tell you that while all press is a good thing, this wine deserves acclaim in the style that is represents. Much like our argument with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir from California is all too often “supersized” and massively endowed with something totally out of its delicate and beautiful nature. Mat and the Dutton’s again attain their mission in bringing us a real representation of what the best fruit from a single vineyard site in the Russian River Valley can generously and gracefully endow. The wine shows pin-point focus and spice without being too angular or rigid. The fruit is pure, clean and unmistakable in beauty and modest, yet luxurious sweetness. The Thomas Road boasts a complexity and balance that in our opinion could be the benchmark for California Pinot producers and should therefore be a must drink for all that attempt to release such a wine from the Appellation. Brilliantly, this wine appeals equally to those that have affection for the most intellectual red Burgundies and those that are simply pleased by the brightness and easiness of juicy and soft wines, whatever they innocently and unknowingly may be.
Dutton Estate “Gail Ann’s Vineyard”, Syrah, Russian River Valley 2003
Download tech sheet in PDF format
The Stats:
Winemaker:
- Mat Gustafson
Production:
- 213 cases
Vineyard Sourcing / Clones:
- Gail Ann’s Vineyard (Dutton Ranch) / 887
Winemaking:
- Open top fermentation; cold soaked, manual punch down; unfiltered
Barrel Aging:
- 14 months in French and American (60% new)
The Score From the ‘Door:
Syrah from the Russian River Valley is something we are sure to see more and more of as numerous growers are replanting certain vineyard sites to the Rhone varietal that they feel is more representative of its origin. A few producers have already set the standard in the appellation and are showing gorgeous examples. Truth be told, American palates have become very comfortable with sweet, juicy and creamy California Syrah and more so with the more extreme and extracted examples coming from Australia as its near identical twin in Shiraz. Russian River Valley Syrah has a different intention altogether as we see in Dutton Estate Gail Ann’s 2003. The nose comes across as undoubtedly that which we are used to in Syrah, while the restraint in focused plum and intense spice gracefully caress the palate. A mid-palate of dark chocolate, blueberry/blackberry coupled with the acidity of cranberry fruit and espresso allows one to reflect on its clear homage to the Rhone, but clearly gives its origin in the Russian River Valley an identity. The brightness and “lifted” acidity in the finish allow the passive but strident tannins to offer a perfect balance – one that nods towards just how good this wine can become given maturity (from a vineyard standpoint as well as in the bottle).